фото: Рудмана Виктора
Может быть, вкусовые достоинства мяса лесного зверя, тому причина, а скорее всего необходимость «запастись» экологически чистым продуктом, гонит в лес за традиционным русским трофеем, будь это лось, олень, кабан…, заяц, утка, гусь или болотно-полевая «мелочь», охотников далеко не бедных.
Вспоминается, два-три десятка лет тому назад, «трепетное» отношение, приехавших к нам на охоту финнов, чуть ли не трясущимися от радости руками обрабатывали добытых гоголей, в то время у нас за уток не считавшихся, и костлявых язей, попавших в сетку, установленную егерем рядом с охотничьей базой. На замечание, зачем им всё это надо, ответ был один – Экология!
Оставим в «покое» наших скандинавских соседей, за окном зимний пейзаж с сугробами и морозами, как и положено быть русской зиме, опровергающей холодным декабрем-январем прогнозы синоптиков о глобальном потеплении.
Что нам к столу может предложить «Календарь охоты» в эти зимние месяцы, вписываясь в действующие в настоящее время «Правила охоты».
п.п. 51.2 на боровую, горную дичь — в период с третьей субботы августа по 28 (29) февраля в течение единого непрерывного срока не менее 120 дней;
фото: Антона Журавкова
п.п. 51.3 на белую и тундряную куропатку — в период с третьей субботы августа по 20 апреля в течение единого непрерывного срока не менее 150 дней; Кабан: все половозрастные группы с 1 июня по 28 (29) февраля (продолжительностью не менее 210 дней).
Понятно, что придется поискать места, где зимой можно без приключений добыть боровую дичь и найти белую куропатку.
Много проще с охотой на кабана, хотя и здесь есть ограничения. Запрещается: добыча кабанов загоном, нагоном, а также с применением собак охотничьих пород с 1 января по 28 (29) февраля, за исключением добора раненых кабанов;
Добыть кабана, пусть даже на подкормке с вышки, не так уж просто, как многие считают. Конечно особо спортивной, охоту из благоустроенной «засидки» с оптикой, ночником, тепловизором и прочей современной приблудой не назовешь, но адреналина прибавляет изрядно сама обстановка ночного леса, мороз заползающий под куртку, ставя под сомнение характеристики фирменной одежды для – 50 градусов, тревожное ожидание, да и боязнь промаха, хуже того подранок, которого нужно добирать самому (скорее участвовать), чтобы не опозориться перед егерями.
Но все-таки это не настоящая охота. Куда интереснее взять кабана с подхода. Разобраться в покопах кабаньего стада в местах кормешки, определиться со следами на дневку, подойти на выстрел…
Не каждое охотхозяйство практикует охоту скрадом, но если удалось договориться, то другие способы добычи кабана уже как бы «второсортные».
Этой многоснежной зимой все условия для охоты с подхода. Глубокие сугробы ограничивают передвижение кабана, часто охотнику приходиться тропить зверя по глубоким набитыми свиньями тропам – «траншеям», не редко в рост взрослой особи.
Раз уж мы заговорили в начале материала о кулинарных достоинствах дичины, то целью в данном случае будет отнюдь не взрослый кабан, тем более старый секач, еще не полностью отошедший от предновогоднего гона, а сеголеток или подсвинок.
Охота ходовая зимой без лыж, скрадывать гремя лыжиной по елкам не будешь, достаточно изнуряющая, но результат того стоит. Не только добытом трофеем, но и чувством добытчика, что много ценнее.
фото: Семина Михаила
В средней полосе, где кабана все-таки в какой-то мере подкармливают, либо зверь привязан к местам остатков сельхоз. культур, закладки силоса и т.п., свиньи широко не ходят, тем более по глубокому снегу, здесь охотнику в поисках будет легче.
Естественно кроме набитых троп, кабан и целины не боится. Так что два охотничьих термина, «выволока» и «поволока», определяющих направление хода зверя, будут начинающему зверобою в помощь.
Выволока образуется при вытаскивании конечности из следовой лунки, когда животное выбрасывает из ямки на поверхность снежное крошево, определяя направление хода и прочерчивает ногой рваную полоску на толще снега.
Поволока возникает в момент, когда зверь ступает вперед, создавая в снегу углубление и образуя ровную полосу шириной с копыто.
Следы, это отдельная тема, здесь уместно посоветовать обратиться к авторам старых изданий, например: Н.Л. Зворыкину или С.А. Бутурлину.
Из оружия и боеприпаса, из личного опыта: гладкий ствол и картечь 8 мм (усреднено) вполне достаточно для кабанчика до 80 кг. Сам снаряд картечи может быть согласованным, при самостоятельном снаряжении, подручным материалом (спички, трубочки из бумаги …), либо куплен в специальном контейнере. Не желающим заморачиваться самокрутом, вполне можно обойтись заводским патроном.
Как себя покажет картечь при выстреле, все-таки лучше проверить до охоты по листу бумаги. Возможно цилиндр и д.с. 0,25 мм не всегда лучший вариант сменного чока.
Итак, зверь добыт, наступает ответственный момент для любителя дичины, как правильно приготовить мясо кабана, с чем его употребить и каким напитком оттенить вкус приготовленного блюда, чтобы у завзятого «гурмана» не возникло никаких замечаний.
Обращаюсь к старинной кулинарной книги Елены Молоховец.
Жаркое дикий поросенок
Взять 3–4 фунта этого мяса, замариновать, т. е. суток на 2 или на 3 опустить в уксус со специями, приготовленный следующим образом: 4–5 стаканов уксуса, 6–7 штук лаврового листа, 30 штук английского перца, 30 штук можжевеловых ягод, 2 луковицы, вскипятить, остудить.
Дно кастрюли обложить тоненькими ломтиками шпика, сложить на него мясо, осыпать кореньями и специями, накрыть плотно крышкой, тушить на легком огне; когда подрумянится, влить ½ стакана бульона, тушить, опять подлить ½ стакана бульона и наконец ½ стакана столового вина, тушить до мягкости.
фото: Fotolia.com
Когда жаркое будет готово, нарезать его тоненькими ломтиками, сложить на блюдо, облить соусом следующим: 1½ стакана процеженного от жаркого соуса смешать с ½ стакана вишневого сока. За ½ часа перед отпуском обсыпать жаркое ложкой тертого хлеба, смешанного с ложкой тертого сыра пармезана, ½ чайной ложечкой корицы, вставить в печь, чтобы подрумянилось. Или изжарить это жаркое как обыкновенно, облить его соусом из смородины. Вино красное
Голова дикого вепря
Целую голову дикого вепря намочить на несколько часов в холодную воду, потом облить кипятком, очистить, вынуть язык, завязать голову в салфетку, варить в воде с бутылкой уксуса, солью, пряностями, луковицей и чесноком.
Когда уварится до мягкости, подать с хреном или с каким-нибудь сладким соусом. В Пасху голова вепря подается холодной, варится вышесказанным образом, только надо ее остудить, убрать майонезом, зеленой петрушкой, ломтиками лимона.
Вареный окорок молодого вепря
Свежий окорок от небольшого молодого вепря, так, чтобы шпика было на нем на ¼ вершка толщины, положить в каменную чашку на 2 дня; налить уксусом, вскипяченным с гвоздиками, лавровым листом, английским перцем, ½ чайной ложечкой селитры и немного соли.
Вынуть из уксуса, сварить в воде до мягкости, снять верхнюю кожицу, посыпать 1 ложкой мелкого сахара, ½ ложечкой корицы, переложить на сотейник, вставить в печь, чтобы сахар подрумянился; подавать с макаронами, или с соусом из щавеля, или со шпинатом, или с зеленым горошком и картофельным пюре. Вино красное.
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